Like Living There

A quick trip to Philly

2012-01-30T12:42:00.000-05:00

We live a little over two hours from Philadelphia (and a similar distance from New York), so it's easy to go in for a day or weekend. On Friday we went to Philly to attend a charity dinner put on by our son's fraternity at Drexel University. It was at a new venue, Bistro St. Tropez at 24th and Market, on the top floor of the Marketplace Design Center. We got there early and stopped by the bar for a pre-dinner drink. Great view across the Schuylkill River to the 30th Street Station, and behind it the modern Cira Centre.

We usually stay at the Marriott Courtyard right by the magnificent City Hall and a block from the Reading Terminal Market. After some pretty good crepes for breakfast at Profi's Creperie we headed to the Italian Market, which covers a few blocks of 9th Street, centered on Washington Avenue. A lot of it is grungy compared to most European markets, maybe because it's held every day.

There were some great bargains, such as two plastic bags of grapes for $1. And there are some great stores, including a butcher shop where we found lamb sausage with rosemary and garlic - something the local supermarket doesn't have. Cheese lovers won't be disappointed either. Here's a shot through the window of Di Bruno Bros., which has been around since 1939.

We had a decent, not memorable, lunch at Marra's and then drove up Passyunk Ave. past the intersection with 9th Street. That's where the famous Geno's and Pat's cheesesteak emporiums are located.

We also went to the Mütter Museum, certainly one of the most unique places we've ever been. It is the repository of a huge selection of medical oddities, covering hundreds of years, including a plaster cast of the original Siamese twins, Chang and Eng Bunker. Right now the headline feature is Albert Einstein's brain, although that's a little deceiving. It turns out Einstein's brain was analyzed years ago by cutting it into thin slices.
After an hour I'd had enough of weird medical exhibits, but if you're interested in all things medical this museum is not to be missed.

Vueling expands flights at Barcelona El Prat

2012-01-27T11:55:00.001-05:00

Budget airline Vueling, partially owned by Spain's national carrier Iberia, announced a dramatic expansion of flights at the main Barcelona El Prat airport. This is good news for travelers who want to visit other European destinations, but who by time constraints or preference do not want to go by train or car.

Barcelona El Prat airport is about 30 minutes from the center of the city by taxi.

The list of new destinations includes for the first time the Nordic countries of Denmark, Sweden and Norway, as well as Croatia and several cities in France.

From cost and time standpoints, it's hard to argue against a budget flight between European cities. Prices can be extraordinarily low, although you must be careful to count up the add-ons. We flew from Barcelona to Florence a few years ago, which took about 90 minutes; it would have taken many hours and more euros by train. And if you rent a car in one country and return it in another you'll be hit with a hefty drop-off charge.

But with time, as we will have in May, a train/car trip allows for leisurely sightseeing along the way. We'll take four days to go between Barcelona and Paris, likely through the Auvergne region of central France and Burgundy. To avoid the drop charge - and limit time behind the wheel - we'll take trains from Barcelona across the border into France, then pick up a car. At the other end we'll return it in Dijon and take a TGV train into Paris.

If you'd rather fly, be careful to know which Barcelona airport your flight is to or from. Some discount airlines fly into Girona, which is an hour or more by bus from Barcelona itself.

And one more tip: If flying into Barcelona El Prat, take seats on the right side of the plane. You'll be rewarded with a great view across the city on approach.

To see apartments in Barcelona and Paris, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Fun trip report of family in Paris

2012-01-23T11:57:00.000-05:00

Did you ever want to be footloose and fancy free - with young children in tow? This blog makes me want to relive that part of life, free of the insecurity and clumsiness of my young parenthood. This is part 1 of 3; here's a link to Part 2, and to Part 3.

Their trip was in December; we visited in December 2008, during a colder-than-normal week. But there's so much to see and do that we didn't mind. Here's Charlotte taking a close look in the Louvre:

If you're going to visit more than two museums - or if lines drive you nuts - buy the Paris Museum Pass, which gets you free entry to 60 museums, and perhaps best of all, means no standing in the ticket queue. In addition, knowing you can come and go as you please over 2, 4 or 6 days is liberating - no need to extend a visit if you get tired, you can always come back later or tomorrow. We did that at the Musée d'Orsay and it allowed us to comfortably see more than we would have in one hectic visit. Here's a shot of this beautiful building:

We paid a visit to the Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson in Montparnasse to see some work by some of the greatest photographers. While there we stopped for a late lunch and I had this galette, a savory crepe made with buckwheat flour:

Note the scarf, purchased at Galeries Lafayette; I've since learned to properly tie a Parisian knot, which is both more stylish and warmer.

Crazy – Barcelona in 24 hours

2012-01-19T21:12:00.000-05:00

This is not our idea of fun, but sometimes time is limited and wanderlust is not. So these folks plotted their way around Barcelona in one day. No two people would lay out the same itinerary for a one-day visit anywhere, and I'd quibble with some of the choices in this article. Most important is to have a plan, or you could easily while away the day wandering around and stopping at tapas bars. Hey, that's not a bad plan.

This day started at Gaudi's Casa Batllo, on Passeig de Gracia. Given the time constraints, these travelers opted to bypass Sagrada Familia, which aside from being a bit off the beaten tourist path usually has long lines to get in.

Gaudi's Casa Batllo shares the "Block of Discord" with two other Modernista buildings. His La Pedrera is across the street and up a couple of blocks.

There can be lines here, but shorter. We toured La Pedrera last trip and waited in line about 30 minutes, then spent about an hour inside. If you want to see Sagrada Familia but don't want the wait, you can buy tickets in advance online at http://www.sagradafamilia.cat/sf-eng/.

After walking down to the Barri Gotic, the Picasso Museum came next, except the lines also were long there, so they switched to the Museum of Contemporary Art. Already they were spending a lot of time and energy on foot. This museum is near El Raval, the crowded immigrant district that can be intimidating, particularly at night. Except for young clubbers, who go there for a bit of exotic fun. We stayed in this apartment in El Raval and admit to a bit of discomfort at first. But we found it just a lively, authentic area where you can buy great fresh fruit and grab a cheap drink.

Fruit stand in El Raval.

Our intrepid pair then headed to the waterfront, although they don't say exactly where; the decription sounds like Villa Olympica. Both that area and Barceloneta are quite a hike from the MACBA, and the route would retrace some steps. So, like much travel writing, I think this article is a bit fanciful.

For plenty of dining and drinking options you need to go to Barceloneta, not Villa Olympica. If the weather's nice you can relax on a bench like the three young fellows below.

The water and air are still warm in late September.

The biggest change I'd make to this itinerary would be to use the Metro, buses or taxis to get from one area to another. There's plenty of walking to be had within the Barri Gotic or along Passeig de Gracia without hoofing it between them.

To see more apartments in Barcelona or Paris, visit www.likelivingthere.com

A guide to dog-friendly Paris

2012-01-16T08:46:00.000-05:00

It strikes you as you pass a Parisienne and her pampered poodle on a residential block in the Marais, or perhaps when you notice the yellow lab snoozing beneath the café table - Parisians love their dogs and treat them as part of the family. This article describes it far better and more completely than I can.

A patient pooch waits his turn outside a café. Photo courtesy of VirtualTourist.com.

But while the dogs we've come across in Paris are incredibly well-behaved, their owners feel no compunction to clean up after them. No one carries plastic baggies at the ready, so it's wise to look down now and again when walking. The city has tried many ways to cope, but as the article points out, mostly washes the poops into the guttter.

Alas, few apartment owners we deal with in either Paris or Barcelona allow pets of any kind ... not that many travelers bring them along. Those that do likely have favorite hotels that pamper both the pet and owner.

Here's an apartment in the 2nd arrondissement where you can easily walk to many key sights, including the Jardin des Tuilleries, where you're likely to get a glimpse of Parisians and their pooches. To see more apartments in Paris and Barcelona, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Is this an early April Fool story?

2012-01-12T11:09:00.002-05:00

This article appears in an established newspaper, but really, could this be possible? I don't think so, but the architectural firm will get a lot of free publicity for their effort. This could be someone's idea of fun, I guess.

Don't worry, there are harnesses to keep you from falling off.

The architects said they wanted to design something fitting for a city that is noted for its unique buildings, from the Sagrada Familia cathedral, seen in the background, to the modern and slightly suggestive Torre Agbar. I think they had tongues firmly in cheeks when they came up with this.

If you'd like to have a comfortable stay within range of Sagrada Familia, how about this apartment? It's five blocks from the Gaudi masterpiece and the same from the classy Passeig de Gracia in the other direction. There's a good Metro station with two lines nearby, as well as a market. And you're a pleasant stroll up the calm Passeig de Sant Joan boulevard to the relatively tourist-free Gracia district.

If you want to rock climb, maybe this will help. We make no recommendations, just did a quick search to turn them up.

Don't wait too long if you're planning to visit Barcelona or Paris this year; inquiries shot up right after the holidays and our contacts there tell us they're seeing steady demand. What recession?

Cezanne in Paris at the Musée du Luxembourg

2012-01-08T21:24:00.000-05:00

The great Impressionist painter Paul Cézanne usually is associated with Provence, often for his paintings of Mont Sainte-Victoire near Aix-en-Provence. But an exhibit through February 12 at the Musée du Luxembourg, at 19 rue de Vaugirard in the Jardin du Luxembourg, showcases his work in Paris, where Cézanne spent more than half his career.

We were in Aix in September 2010. Here are a couple of photos:

The beautiful fountain at Place du General de Gaulle, at the foot of the Cours Mirabeau.


About the midpoint of the Cours Mirabeau.

We didn't have time to get much off the tourist track, but could sense that following the winding lanes would yield more authentic experiences. We were staying in Vaugines in the Luberon and made our way to Aix via Cadenet, a modest village with some unique attributes, such as a museum of basketry.

The basket museum in Cadenet.

One example of the artisanship and artistry.

It was a Monday and there was a market. I picked up some luscious preserves and Charlotte found a pair of nice hammered silver earrings.

Back to Paris in this disjointed post; here's a very nice apartment about halfway between the Luxembourg and the Seine river. This is a very touristy area, in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Pres. But it's also centered on many of the sights travelers come to Paris to see.

For a look at more apartments in Paris and Barcelona, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Some Barcelona tips for foodies

2012-01-05T09:23:00.000-05:00

According to this article, Barcelona belongs in the company of other great food cities around the world. But rather than restaurants, the writer focuses on food stores. Not mentioned, but a good spot to buy something to take back to your apartment or home as gifts, is Gastronomia Viniteca in El Born, run by the same folks who operate Vila Viniteca, a highly regarded wine shop across the alley.

Gastronomia Viniteca, on the right, is across from Vila Viniteca.

These shops are tucked between the Santa Maria del Mar church and Via Laietana, and there are plenty of places nearby to savor a glass of wine or some tapas as you plan your shopping list.

This apartment is a few blocks away, on Passeig de Colom, right across from the seafront promenade. It's owned by an interior designer who has a shop elsewhere in the city. His touch is obvious:

On a walk between the wine shop and the apartment you'll pass by the magnificent old post office, which boasts domed, painted ceilings high above the open central room.

To see more apartments in Barcelona and Paris, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Plans in place for our next trip

2012-01-02T20:18:00.000-05:00

After a year of no travel due to illness (except for a few days on Saint Martin in the Caribbean in March and a brief jaunt to Cape Cod in summer), we're gearing up for a Barcelona to Paris trip in May. This time we'll start in Barcelona, then take four days meander to Paris by train and car, making two-night stops in the Auvergne and Burgundy.

I foolishly held out hope that airfares would go down, and paid the price for not grabbing some good rates back in mid-November. We opted to pay a little more to fly bigger planes, on British Airways. We'll have a Boeing 777 each way across the Atlantic. This will mean a change in Heathrow, which can bring fear into the hearts of travelers. But we'll be on BA all the way and all departures and arrivals are in Terminal 5, with about two hours between flights. The tab? $2,500 plus $152 for seating choices. Ouch!

A Boeing 777 in flight. Photo courtesy of British Airways.

Terminal 5 at Heathrow. Photo courtesy of British Airways.

We're going to stay at this apartment in Barcelona. It's a modest and affordable place, fine for the two of us. I picked this for the location - in Eixample Dreta, three blocks to Passeig de Gracia and a block to the Girona Metro station, with Line 1 that goes to the Old City. So while it's pretty central, we'll be a bit off the main tourist track.

Once we get to Paris, we'll be staying in an apartment just to the east of the Jardin du Luxembourg, in the 5th arrondissement.

Flower bed in the Jardin du Luxembourg in September. It should be even more beautiful in May.

The sixth floor, one-bedroom flat is within a short walk of the Pantheon and many good, moderately priced restaurants. We've stayed in the 5th before, but farther to the east. This neighborhood is closer to the Saint-Germain-des-Pres, but removed enough to be a bit less touristic.

I'll fill in the trip in future posts. We've not been through the Auvergne, but I have my eye on a nice small hotel. In Burgundy we'll renew our friendship with Lady Celine and John Nicholls at their chambre d'hote in Puligny-Montrachet.

Disturbing exhibit at Branly targets racism

2011-12-29T21:23:00.000-05:00

A current exhibit at the Quai Branly museum offers challenging images of racism, including "human zoos" once found in Paris's Jardin d'Acclimatation.

Poster for "The Invention of the Savage" at the Branly.

Lilian Thuram, the curator, is a former soccer player turned anti-racism advocate. He has pulled together a display of offensive images and stories that particularly show Africans as less than human - or at least inferior to the white man. Venues for the cruelty included Buckingham Palace and Coney Island.

"For the visitors of this era, it was a way ... to see what was happening elsewhere in the world. Except that visitors weren't totally aware that was a spectacle, that it was a fabricated difference," fabricated to make the viewer feel superior, said scientific curator Nanette Jacomijn Snoep.

Situated near the Eiffel Tower in the 7th arrondissement, the Branly is one of the newest museums in Paris. It's collections attempt to display historical cultures from around the world. There's also a rooftop terrace and restaurant with great views:

Les Ombres restaurant at the Quai Branly museum.

If more traditional art appeals to you, it's not far to the Musée d'Orsay or Musée Rodin.

Here's a nearby apartment for a family or friends traveling together. We stayed here with friends in fall 2010, just after it had been put on the market. The space, three bedrooms and two baths made things very comfortable. It's not inexpensive, but the view of the Eiffel Tower from the living room windows is worth a little extra.

Visit www.likelivingthere.com to see more apartments in Paris and Barcelona.

Christmas just beginning in Barcelona

2011-12-25T12:07:00.001-05:00

While the frantic Christmas season comes to a head in the U.S., in Barcelona things are just hitting stride. This article describes the festivities that began on Christmas Eve and last until Epiphany, January 6, when the Three Kings arrive with a flourish, bringing gifts to every child.

Shoppers under the lights in Barcelona

The author points out that the season is not just about rushing around to find the best bargains. As in most of Europe, the Christmas season in Barcelona is more easy-going, with lots of time for socializing, relaxing and taking in the special decorations and events. And it's somewhat ironic that in places where church attendance is well below that in the States, there's a reverence for religious traditions.

We have not yet been in Barcelona for the holidays, but from what I've seen and read, it's a lot like Paris, where we spent a chilly December week a couple of years ago, but with its own twists, including the "Caganer," the pooping peasant found in most Nativity scenes and reproduced in chocolate. I'm not sure how I'd feel about taking a bite of that!

Bon Nadal!

Great photo report on the lighted Champs-Elysées

2011-12-15T08:47:00.000-05:00

Spend a few minutes with this blog and browse the decorations along the Champs-Elysées, from the Arc de Triomphe to the Christmas markets and La Grand Roue (the Ferris wheel) that is installed during the holidays at Place de la Concorde. This blogger puts up wonderful posts with excellent photos of Paris and other places. One I particularly liked was a Sunday morning walk around Montmartre, providing glimpses of streets, homes and gardens absent crowds.

The highlight (?) of the post is the new lights on the trees along the Champs-Elysées,with appropriately critical comments. These hula hoops may satisfy someone's desire for the avant garde, but I agree they don't in any way communicate the spirit of Christmas. Contrast what you've seen with the old:

I like these so much I created a pale imitation on a tree next to our house. Then I saw the new lights and was horrified! Here's a shot that looks from atop the Arc to La Grand Roue:

When you look at the linked blog, be sure to go down to the videos of window displays at the grands magasins Printemps and Galeries Lafayette.

Here's an apartment close enough to walk to the Champs-Elysées in one direction and the Seine in the other. To see more apartments in Paris and Barcelona, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Tapas isn’t all in Barcelona … try the chocolate

2011-12-10T16:18:00.000-05:00

While tapas and cava are well-known Barcelona treats, the city also has a marvelous range of chocolate shops. The link here takes you to an article about one:
bakingbites.com/2011/11/cacao-sampaka-barcelona-spain/

That shop is located in the Eixample, just off Passeig de Gracia. We've found the smaller, less fancy ones along Calle de la Princesa and on other streets near the Picasso Museum in El Born filled with tasty confections as well. The nearby Calle del Comercio is the location of the Museu de la Xocolata and the highly regarded restaurant that specializes in dessert, Espai Sucre. There are good restaurants here as well, including Santa Maria, run by an alumnus of Ferran Adria's El Bulli.

Our son enjoyed this masterpiece when we at at the restaurant Citrus on Passeig de Gracia:

The chocolate was drizzled with, of course, a citrus sauce.

Here's a new family sized apartment not far from Citrus. This area also has the city's most complete and classiest shopping, from the flagship Zara store to high-end names like Chanel and Bulgari a few blocks away.

To see more apartments in Barcelona and Paris, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Electric rental cars arrive in Paris

2011-12-07T12:48:00.000-05:00

The Velib' bicycle system is no longer the only innovative public transit option in Paris.

A Velib' bicycle on Rue des Ecoles in the 5th arrondissement.

On Monday Autolib' began operations, offering electric mini-cars by the hour. There are subscription fees from one day to one year and hourly rates from euro 4 to euro 9. About 2,000 subscribers have already signed up. According to the article, the scheme is a private venture and is not expected to break even for seven years.

One thing that may be a problem for U.S. tourists wanting to use the system (and Velib') is the automated payment stations likely won't take a standard magnetic strip credit card. For years I heard that Velib' would work with American Express, but I'm not sure that's even the case now. U.S. banks are slowly offering card with the embedded chip that has been standard elsewhere in the world for years, but hopefully there are other options until that happens.

As small, cute and earth-friendly as the Autolib' cars are, I'd be inclined to use them only when necessary, such as if I needed to move luggage or something else large and clumsy, or for jaunts where the Metro doesn't go. They're said to have a 150-mile range, although you might not want to test it.

We stayed at an apartment on Rue des Ecoles a few trips ago; it's not one we represent but this one is. This is a lively area with a great mix of local residents, tourists and students. Here's transportation of an entirely different sort we spotted outside our door; the owner of the café at the corner may have owned it, since it seemed to be around for a long time.

Paris with kids, good ideas and some not so much

2011-12-03T12:20:00.000-05:00

A type-A mom offers some useful tips for visiting Paris with children, but some of it seems unrealisitic, at least with children as independently minded as mine. Here's the link.

http://www.ciaobambino.com/ciaobambinoblog/index.php/2011/09/things-to-do-in-72-hours-in-paris-with-kids/

On first reading I thought she was trying to do too much, but the schedule really isn't that bad. Adults only might spend more time just hanging out at cafés, but with young children you need to keep things moving. The first half-day was made easier by pre-purchasing Eiffel Tower tickets, an excellent suggestion. And even kids who spend most of their time with eyes glued to the computer screen will be impressed by the sights on the walk from Rue de Rivoli to the Tower.


Pont Alexandre III, which crosses the Seine between the Grand Palais and Les Invalides. The bridge is featured in Woody Allen's film, Midnight in Paris.

One bit of advice, eating a big breakfast at your hotel, likely does two bad things, in my opinion. First, it probably costs a fortune; second, it deprives you of the café experience. In this case, if you can afford the Brighton Hotel, maybe price is not an issue, as rooms start at euro 239, about $325, for as little as 18 square meters.

Aside from more space and a better price, one of the little joys of apartment travel is wandering into a local café and ordering the ubiquitous café and croissant special. Tip: stand or sit at the bar and it costs less, as service is not added. If that sounds far-fetched with kids in tow, stock up at a local store and have breakfast in your room.

Even this studio in the 2nd arrondissement has a usable kitchen.

The writer recommends buying a Museum Pass and so do we. Her experience is a perfect example of why; not only do you bypass lines, which can be excruciatingly long even for adults, you feel no pressure to stay beyond your limits to get your money's worth. Didn't get to it all today? Go back tomorrow. If the weather's OK, I'd suggest the Musée Rodin as a good choice with children, since it has both the indoor displays and a delightful sculpture garden.

Rodin's "The Kiss." Suitable for children?

And what kid of any age wouldn't enjoy this sculpture at the Centre Pompidou modern art musuem?

We find the Conciergerie impressive but taxing, and I can't imagine children wanting to spend more than five minutes there. Better to go to the flower market just across the street on Ile de la Cité - or even more fun, the bird market that it becomes on Sundays.

Bird lovers and dealers set up their cages here and you can ooh and ahh at the exotic offerings.

Other sights, either mentioned in the article or our ideas: Arc de Triomphe is a great teaching opportunity as it also holds the tomb of the unknown soldier from World War I. In addition, the explanatory display with models makes it easy for anyone to appreciate the Arc. The view on a clear night is wonderful, and usually much faster than the Eiffel Tower.

As long as you're on the Champs-Elysées, be sure to stop in the Peugeot showroom, which is filled with interesting vehicles, memorabilia and inexpensive trinkets.We were there during the holidays one year, when the avenue is all gussied up.

Peugeot concept car, one of several vehicles on display.

Like any big city, Paris can present challenges to families with young children. But the huge variety of museums, parks and interesting shops - along with the excellent Metro system - makes it an easier visit than many other places.

To see more apartments in Paris and Barcelona, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Good web site with lots of info

2011-11-29T11:37:00.000-05:00

Here's the Barcelona page of a web site that offers a great deal of interesting information, including a neat interactive map showing dozens of attractions. Here's the link: http://www.aviewoncities.com/barcelona.htm

As good as the map is, though, there's a lot missing in this city of endless fascination. Here's a monument in the Eixample Dreta (Right Eixample) that's pretty impressive:

According to Wikipedia, it's named after the 19th century Catalan-language epic poet Jacint Verdaguer. The bas-reliefs around the monument, featuring scenes from Verdaguer's works.

The monument is at the intersection of the busy, commercial Avinguda Diagonal and Passeig Sant Joan, which goes from here into the less-touristic Gracia district. A nice feature is the children's playgrounds every couple of blocks, like this one:

We've stayed near the monument and the Metro station of the same name, which has excellent connections to hotspots like Passeig de Gracia and the Barri Gotic. Here's a photo of one of the apartments in the building:

See more at this link: http://tinyurl.com/7w5ehbq And visit www.likelivingthere.com to see more apartments in Barcelona and Paris.

Paris in December; chilly but beautiful

2011-11-26T14:15:00.000-05:00

This article brings back memories of our 30th anniversary trip to Paris, also in December. Like the writer, we hit a cold snap and struggled to stay out of the heavy, wet snow as we made our way to a celebratory lunch at Taillevent.

Here's a link to the article:http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/11324/1190728-37.stm

The greeting at Taillevent, including host and director Jean-Marie Ancher carefully wiping the drops from my eyeglasses, told us we were in for a special treat.

Ron, Charlotte and Jean-Marie Ancher, at Taillevent

I had told the restaurant this was a special occasion, and this was our reward:

Paris doubles down on its reputation as the City of Light during the holidays, and whether you are on the Champs-Elysees or in a small square, trees are strung with simple bulbs, usually of one color. Here are a couple of examples:

The Arc de Triomphe and Avenue de la Champs-Elysees.

Place de la Contrescarpe, in the 5th arrondissement.

As anywhere else, department stores - les grands magasins - pull out all the stops for the holidays.

Galeries Lafayette flagship store near the Opera.

So, do we recommend visiting Paris in the winter? Sure; there's plenty of indoor entertainment, such as some of the finest museums in the world, great food and gorgeous street scenes. But it's a completely different city from Paris in warmer seasons, when flowers are in bloom and parks are filled with people relaxing and strolling. Which means you need to go back again.

Here's an apartment that's quite central to many key sights but a bit off the tourist track:
http://tinyurl.com/3fweskn

To see more apartments in Paris and Barcelona, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Barcelona-Madrid train gets faster

2011-11-21T20:46:00.000-05:00

The AVE high-speed train has gotten even faster.

Fans of rail travel have a new reason to take the AVE train between Barcelona and Madrid, as a new navigation system has reduced the minimum trip time to 2 hours, 30 minutes. There's added thrill with the new 310 kmh (193 mph) top speed.

Here's a link to an article:
http://www.catalannewsagency.com/news/society-science/high-speed-train-between-barcelona-and-madrid-reduced-2h-30-min

I like trains for trips of this length (621 km, or 386 miles). By the time you get to a departure airport, pass security, board, fly, land on the other end and collect baggage, a 1 hour, 15 minute flight can become a six-hour ordeal. That's the good side of train travel - the bad side is the cost, which was 139 euros for a mid-December date I checked, compared to a 39.98 euro ticket on budget air carrier Vueling. Add to that, though, charges for bags and other add-ons.

Here's a link a primer on how to get the best prices directly from the Spanish rail web site:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Travel-g187514-c80518/Madrid:Spain:Buying.Renfe.Tickets.Online..html

You'll pay more and have fewer options with a site like www.raileurope.com, which is a broker for tickets. But I've often found the price difference smaller compared to buying from a dedicated rail system when crossing national borders. And some people like the security of having the tickets in hand before beginning their trip.

New WWI museum a day trip from Paris

2011-11-16T11:05:00.000-05:00

A new World War I museum that was inaugurated on Veterans Day by French President Nicolas Sarkozy owes its existence to the determination of an amateur archeologist who amassed a huge collection of artifacts over many decades. Here's a link to an article about the opening:

http://www.reuters.com/article/2011/11/11/us-france-ww-idUSTRE7AA4G420111111

To see the museum home page - in French - click on the title or the embedded link later in this post.

Here's a photo of the collector, Jean-Pierre Verney, among some of his finds:

The Musée de la Grande Guerre is near Meaux, about 50 kilometers by road east of Paris and 10 km from Disneyland Paris. From Paris you can take a train from Gare de l'Est and then a bus for about 10 minutes from the station in Meaux. It's a 42 minute drive, depending on traffic, according to www.viamichelin.com.

Stay here http://tinyurl.com/3jl379y and you can jump on the Périphérique to quickly be on your way to the museum. There's a parking garage right across the street from the apartment, too. And just a few blocks away is the charming and excellent La Petite Auberge bistro, a small, family run place where you can savor well-prepared traditional favorites.

To see more apartments in Paris and Barcelona, visit www.likelivingthere.com.

Barcelona, hotbed of creativity

2011-11-13T21:02:00.000-05:00

I don't think this article really explains why Barcelona has been the home to so many creative geniuses, but it does gives a nice overview of displays of work by some of the most notable ones.

http://blogs.barrons.com/penta/2011/11/03/barcelona-in-the-well-spring-of-creation/?mod=google_news_blog

We took a tour of Gaudi's La Pedrera last fall, and it really is stunning. In late September the wait in line was about a half hour and we spent at least an hour inside. There are elevators, except for the last stage up to the rooftop, so it's easy to do. You can see an exterior photo with the story, and mine at right shows the fanciful and a little scary chimneys on the rooftop. Here are some photos from inside:

This shot from inside the lobby illustrates Gaudi's fluid, organic style.

Ever the perfectionist, Gaudi designed the furnishings, including this chair. Note the moldings and doors; nothing is ordinary in a Gaudi building.

Sculptures on the terrace off the apartment continue the natural feel. The photo was taken through a window. The view is on Passeig de Gracia; a few blocks down is 'Mançana de la Discordia', where three Modernista buildings compete for attention, including Gaudi's Casa Batlló. Notice the modern facade across the street; some neighboring property owners feel the need to stand out.

The article is pretentiously directed toward people with assets of $5 million or more. You don't need to be wealthy to see the beautiful sights in Barcelona, especially when you buy an articketBCN. For $25 you get entrance to seven museums, including La Pedrera, and you bypass the lines. To learn more, click this: http://www.articketbcn.org/en/index

If you want to be within a short walk of La Pedrera and Passeig de Gracia, consider this apartment: http://tinyurl.com/3hrfjgs

It's at the opposite corner of the block, professionally decorated and with a nice terrace.

To see more apartments in Barcelona and Paris, visit www.likelivingthere.com.

Remnants of medieval Paris

2011-11-09T12:57:00.000-05:00

Here's a very informative blog post that offers a tour of remaining medieval structures in Paris.
http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelingmom/fall_in_paris/1318428574/tpod.html#_

A lot of this is in the Marais, which escaped the "Haussmannization" of the city in the mid to late 19th century. Here's one example as shown on this blog:

According to the writer, the wall—now the back end of a school playground, is the largest surviving section of the outer walls of the city constructed in the 12^th century by Phillipe-Auguste.

You don't have to search hard to find evidence of the Middle Ages in Paris; the Notre Dame cathedral, begun in the 12th century, is a living example. The magnificent edifice is well worth the time and effort required to pay a visit, and services and performances here take on special character. If you are up for it - there's a lot of stair climbing involved, 387 steps in all - a tour of the towers provides spectacular views of Paris as well as close-ups with the famous gargoyles added by the architect Viollet-le-Duc in the 19^th century. This photo gives a glimpse of both:

The Marais makes a great base for exploring many of the sights and monuments in Paris. Here's an apartment that is cozy and plain, but affordable and wonderfully located a block from the beautiful Place des Vosges, on a street lined with high-end shops: http://tinyurl.com/3zg4a2z

It's also only a block from the Musée Carnavalet, the museum of the history of Paris. From here you can walk to the Bastille and beyond, and a huge variety of cafés are all around.

To see more apartments in Paris and Barcelona, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Unusual street art in Barcelona

2011-11-06T12:44:00.000-05:00

Visitors to Barcelona often are put off by the amount of graffiti, but here's a story about street art of a different sort, and pretty creative:
http://www.wired.com/underwire/2011/09/ojo-senor-led-cats/

According to the article, these are posters, so they can be removed without too much fuss or expense. Graffiti is a different story, but, as the photo below illustrates - and as we've observed - it usually is confined to doors and shutters, rather than on the stone facades of buildings.

This particular example is in El Raval, but you'll see this everywhere - graffiti art of varied quality confined to the roll-up security doors. Shopkeepers were commissioning some of this work in an effort to present attractive, professionally done artwork rather than amateurish "tags." But the city council stepped in last year with new laws against graffiti and shops now can be fined up to 600 euros for having their shutters painted.

The laws, meant to curb "antisocial" behavior, cover activities such as begging and prostitution. And while placing some restrictions on behavior that could be disturbing, most of the penalties are small and lean toward rehabilitation rather than punishment. You can read the law here: http://www.bcn.es/publicacions/b_informacio/bi_93/convivencia_angles.pdf

I've seen only a few examples of what these laws aim to prevent; but then I don't frequent known areas of prostitution or partying. To do the same, you can stay in a location that's set away from those places, such as this one in the district called Poble Nou (new town) that is near the beaches: http://tinyurl.com/bmeo29e

Here are some photos:

While away from the heavy tourist zones, this apartment (and three others like it) are near the Metro Line 4, which goes directly to the Barri Gotic and Passeig de Gracia. They're also near the beaches.

To see more apartments in Barcelona and Paris, visit www.likelivingthere.com.

Stein collection on display at Grand Palais

2011-11-02T21:16:00.000-04:00

Paintings collected by the greatest tastemakers of their time, Gertrude Stein and her brothers, are on display at the Grand Palais in Paris. I envy you if you are in the city between now and mid-January, when the exhibit will be boxed up and sent to New York, where the collection will be on display between February 1 and June 3.

I suppose we could go to see it there, but it wouldn't be quite the same. Here's a link to an article:

http://www.forbes.com/feeds/ap/2011/10/04/entertainment-eu-france-stein-collection_8715974.html

The Grand Palais and its smaller sibling, the Petit Palais were built for the 1900 Universal Exhibition. Two years later the Petit Palais became a museum with permanent collections and scheduled shows.

The much larger Grand Palais, in addition to housing art shows, has been host to enormous displays of autos, conventions and fashion exhibitions. Situated between the Champs Elysées and the Seine, the halls are a comfortable walk from Place de la Concorde or the Champs Elysées - Clemenceau Metro station.

Fans of Midnight in Paris may want to stroll across the river on the Pont Alexandre III, site of the closing scene. You'll have a great view over the Esplanade des Invalides to the magnificent hospital built by Napoleon for his wounded soldiers.

Last fall we stayed with friends on the other side of Les Invalides, in a top-floor, 3 bedroom apartment on Avenue de Villars. We could view the Eiffel Tower from our windows:

This is an upscale residential neighborhood, with few cafés or shops (although a wonderful boulangerie); but a few blocks walking east brings you to a wealth of choices, including the well-regarded Au Pied de Fouet, http://www.aupieddefouet.com/. The bustling Rue Cler market street is a bit farther in the opposite direction. Other diversions nearby include the Rodin museum. Here's a shot of a "Thinker" statue in the garden:

You may remember him from a scene in Midnight in Paris, in which Carla Bruni Sarkozy was the guide.

Check out our apartment here: http://tinyurl.com/44dgwkk

And visit www.likelivingthere.com to see more apartments in Paris and Barcelona.

Adrias revamp Barcelona eatery in El Bulli mode

2011-10-28T10:35:00.000-04:00

Renowned Spanish chefs Ferran Adria and his brother Albert are at it again. Just weeks after closing El Bulli in Roses, Catalonia, they have expanded the offerings at their 41 Grados in Barcelona beyond drinks and snacks. Now, a lucky - and well-heeled - 16 diners each night will sit down to 41 tiny, imaginative courses built off the El Bulli mold of "molecular gastronomy," in which ingredients may be broken down and prepared in ways that affect their form and taste. It goes way beyond foam, including "soup" in solid form or "cous-cous" of cauliflower.

Here's a link to an article about the revisions at 41 Grados:
http://www.theworlds50best.com/adrias-41-grados-in-barcelona-morphs-into-mini-el-bulli-type-restaurant-opening-tonight/9637

And here are the brothers Adria in Tickets, their tapas bar next door to 41 Grados on the Avingduda Paral-lel, a boulevard that runs from the seafront to Plaça Espanya.

Read more at http://www.41grados.es/

Plaça Espanya is the closest Metro station for visiting the Font Majica, which is claimed to be the first articulated fountain. The spectacular fountain, light and music show put on there many evenings in high seasons draws a big crowd of locals and tourists. We last went for the closing ceremonies of the La Merce festival, when fireworks were added, shot up behind the National Museum of Art that is set on the slopes of Montjuic above the fountain. Here's a photo:

One of the closest apartments we offer is this one, near the Sant Antoni market: http://tinyurl.com/3tzsjxw

A professionally decorated studio, it is in a traditional residential/commercial area but convenient to many sights, as well as to the huge Fira convention and trade show complex that fills the space between Font Majica and Plaça Espanya.

See more apartments in Barcelona and Paris at www.likelivingthere.com

Ritz to get two-year makeover

2011-10-24T21:48:00.000-04:00

The Ritz Paris, disappointed not to receive the coveted "palace" designation from French hotel raters, will close next summer for a complete renovation. It seems the famed hotel in Place Vendôme hasn't had a major upgrade in more than 30 years. Here's a photo at the Christmas season:

Read the story at:
www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/travelnews/8835637/Pariss-Hotel-Ritz-to-close-for-two-years.html

Place Vendôme is the epitome of luxury, laced with luxury hotels and high-end jewelers and shops. You can learn more about the square's history here: http://www.aviewoncities.com/paris/placevendome.htm

If you'd like to check out the grand place before it closes, the lowest-price room for mid-April will set you back 753 euros per night, while an "executive suite" is 1725 euros. Check it out for yourself at http://www.ritzparis.com/

Not the same level of luxury, but more spacious and affordable is this two-bedroom apartment just a couple of blocks away:
http://www.likelivingthere.com/Documents/Apt%20pages%20Paris/PDFs/Right%20Bank%20comfort.pdf

See more apartments in Paris and Barcelona at www.likelivingthere.com

A web site for paranoid travelers

2011-10-21T09:58:00.000-04:00

Travel forums are filled with posts about the dangers encountered when traveling abroad, with pickpockets and scammers in Barcelona and Paris a favorite topic. Experienced travelers - and city dwellers - take this in stride but it's clear a lot of people worry they will be swarmed by bands of gypsies who will strip them of all valuables the moment they set foot on foreign soil.

Among the more scary places for tourists is Barcelona's El Raval, a congested immigrant area dotted with small markets, off-price stores and bars, often swarming with a mix of families and roving teens. A client who lives in Newark and rented an apartment here was unfazed - she said she felt more secure than at home.

Our experience abroad has not been at all hazardous; in the course of several trips (including a few nights in El Raval) we've witnessed one pickpocketing attempt on the Barcelona Metro that ended badly for the perpetrator and have been approached in Paris by someone plying the gold wedding band scam, in which he claims to have found a ring on the sidewalk near you and proceeds to "give" it to you. But of course you feel grateful and offer a few euros as a reward, even though you know the ring isn't yours - you just hope it really is gold, which it's not.

Anyway, here's a link to a web site that covers every imaginable travel glitch, and of course offers products for sale to prevent them. Some of the information, while wordy, is pretty good.

www.corporatetravelsafety.com/safety-tips/index.php

Here's a photo of the apartment we rented in El Raval - a very nice studio with the bed on a mezzanine, although due to my aching back we slept on the very comfortable sleep sofa.

Outside, taxis can drop you at the entrance door if you're worried about walking. We were a little nervous at first, until we realized the people roaming around were just families and individuals out and about socially. And as in the rest of the city, streets and alleys are kept lighted through the night.

To see more apartments in Barcelona and Paris, visit www.likelivingthere.com

New city-to-city bus service in France

2011-10-17T11:50:00.000-04:00

If you don't mind leaving the driving to them, bus service company Eurolines can get you to some French cities for less than typical train fare. Here's a link to the story:

http://www.connexionfrance.com/eurolines-regional-coach-links-rival-sncf-low-cost-bus-north-west-france-cities-paris-12891-view-article.html

Here's the company web site: http://www.eurolines.com/

I just checked one route, Paris to Lyon for later this month. The 27 euro cost certainly is attractive, but the time - 6 1/2 hours - is not. The same trip on the TGV costs at least 66.50 euros but takes only two hours. Here's Charlotte last fall after we arrived in Dijon:

You can get much better train fares by booking ahead, directly with SNCF, the French train operator. Tickets are usually available no more than 90 days in advance (60 days for the TGV). Use this site: www.voyages.sncf.com. It's in French, so you'll need to be careful if you're not fluent in the language. Also, when asked what country you are in, say Canada or else you will be bounced to RailEurope, which is the licensed U.S. reseller. They charge more and don't offer the full schedule - sometimes showing only one or two departures when there are several at different times.

For TGV tickets, you can use www.tgv-europe.com. The same advice applies for getting the best deal.

You also can put yourself on the e-mail alert list for Voyages-SNCF, and get an e-mail every few days with specials that can be very attractively priced.

New Barcelona museum is great for kids

2011-10-14T11:42:00.001-04:00

The new Museu d'Idees i Invents de Barcelona recently opened in the Barri Gotic, a block from Plaça de Sant Jaume. That means it's also very near one of our favorite restaurants, Cafe de l'Academia. It's a fun-loving place, as shown in this photo of one of the installations, a slide between floors:

Here's a link:http://www.mibamuseum.com/en/coleccio

As the name implies, this place is all about ideas and inventions, with displays of intriguing and beautifully designed products and others that are more whimsical. The museum is the personal project of Barcelona native Pep Torres, a writer, musician, designer and inventor. Read more about him here: http://www.peptorres.es/index_eng.html

Cafe de l'Academia is on a small square nearby, Plaça de Sant Just. Here's a photo of an ancient fountain there, with decorations that oddly resemble a young passer-by:

We list several apartments near here, all wonderfully situated for strolling the Old City and convenient to the Metro for trips elsewhere in Barcelona. Here are a couple of photos for one, a two-bedroom that is in the thick of things but on a private alley and thus calm:

To see more apartments in Barcelona and Paris, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Filming locations for 'Midnight in Paris'

2011-10-10T21:14:00.000-04:00

I'm guessing that most of the crowd at a screening of Woody Allen's romantic comedy was, like us, there partly to get a virtual fix of Parisian spirit, and we weren't disappointed. The familiar scenes and skillful cinematography had us either sharing memories of places seen in the movie, or trying to guess where they were shot. Here's a link to a site that details some of the highlights:
http://www.v2asp.paris.fr/commun/v2asp/v2/MIDNIGHTinPARIS_internet.pdf

The beautiful Pont Alexandre III has a starring role, appearing more than once. The ornate bridge that connects the Champs Elysees and Invalides areas has pedestrian lanes that are as broad as those for cars.

We puzzled for days trying to guess the spot where Gil, played by Owen Wilson, was picked up for his post-midnight reveries. Because it's hilly, a lot of people assume it's in Montmartre, but that wouldn't make sense given that the fateful couple is staying at an upscale center city hotel. It turns out we have walked right past the spot, which is the north porch steps of the Eglise Saint-Etienne-du-Mont, in the Latin Quarter. The Montagne Sainte-Geneviève is quite steep as it rises from the Seine.

Not far from there is one of my favorite places in Paris, Place de la Contrescarpe. You may recognize the photo, as we used it for our web site. One December we shared dessert and a drink at Café Delmas, under the red awning, with a German couple we met earlier at the bistro Perraudin. It was a cold walk back, warmed by the food and companionship.

There is a wealth of dining choices here, mostly very affordable if not memorable. Christophe, down the hill a little on Rue Descartes, gets consistently good reviews. In the other direction, Rue Mouffetard is lined with low-priced bars and restaurants, as well as food shops and stands.

To see apartments in Paris, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Rick Steves tries tapas in El Born

2011-10-07T10:19:00.001-04:00

Follow this link to a recent video post on Rick Steves' blog, filmed in a little square in El Born that we know well.

http://blog.ricksteves.com/?p=4417&utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=enjoying-tapas-in-barcelona

In the background of this photo is Taller de Tapas, http://www.tallerdetapas.com/, a very good and reliable place with English menus, which come in handy if you don't want to order pig's snout or some other exotic dish by mistake. The video was shot inside Sagardi, http://www.sagardi.com/, which would be to the right in this photo. This is a well-regarded and very popular tapas bar that has a fine (and more expensive) sit-down restaurant in the back. Here's a shot of the tapas bar entrance:

There are a couple more eating places here, with seating both inside and out. The last time we were there all the outside tables near Sagardi were filled and eager diners hovered around ready to pounce on the next opening.

One of our favorite apartment owners in Barcelona has a building right nearby. The apartments and public areas all are kept neat as a pin and are fully equipped. All but two of the 13 apartments have three bedrooms, but the sizes vary considerably. Here are a couple of photos of a larger unit:

Another nice thing about this owner is she switches to low-season rates on October 1, making the already reasonable prices even more attractive.

This location is ideal for seeing all the Barri Gotic sights - the Santa Maria del Mar church is just down the street and it's just a few minutes on foot to the cathedral and nearby shopping streets. Even Las Ramblas, which we recommend only for daytime visits, is only 15 minutes away. And El Born itself is a lively scene of dining, bars and shops.

The Jaume 1 Metro station at the end of the block is served by Line 4, which goes directly to the classy Passeig de Gracia boulevard in one direction and the beaches in the other. Bear in mind that it's still a few blocks' walk to the seafront from the Metro stations.

To see more apartments in Barcelona and Paris, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Short history, nice photo of Boulevard des Italiens

2011-10-04T22:11:00.000-04:00

Here's a very nice photo and description of one of the four "grands boulevards" of Paris:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/meteorry/6162132226

"Boulevard des Italiens" by Edouard Leon Cortes. Prints available at wwpaintingselect.com

"Meteorry," who posted the article and photo, is a frequent contributor to the online photo site Flickr, putting up a mix of interesting shots of Paris and his (her?) many travels, as well as a series of Space Invaders supposedly spotted around cities worldwide.

The Boulevard des Italiens may not be the classy haunt of café society it once was, but it's a nice neighborhood, stretching about five blocks between the Opera Garnier and Boulevard Haussmann. Nearby is the remnants of a garment district, where I like to buy shirts at a shop on Rue du Quatre-Septembre. More shopping is not far away at the grands magasins of Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, or the lower-priced shops and stands outside their doors.

We don't list any apartments right on the boulevard, but have some nice ones nearby. Here's one on Rue Monsigny: http://tinyurl.com/3fweskn.

This one-bedroom on the first floor (second is the U.S.) with elevator has a comfy double bed, modern kitchen and bath and a sofa bed for an extra person or two. It's only a short walk from here to the Louvre and the Seine. It's popular, so the advice to book early is doubly pertinent.

To see more apartments in Paris or Barcelona, visit www.likelivingthere.com

More on Barcelona architecture

2011-09-30T20:59:00.000-04:00

There's a lot more to architecture in Barcelona than Antoni Gaudi's beautifully organic designs. Here's an article that covers a nice selection of the old and new buildings that are found throughout the city:

http://www.archdaily.com/151845/architecture-city-guide-barcelona/

Here are some photos we've taken over the years, showing some of the beautiful structures that are easily accessible to the public:

This is the facade of the Santa Maria del Mar church in El Born. It is considered the finest example of Catalan Gothic architecture, partly because it was completed in a relatively few years. A popular book, "Cathedral by the Sea," prominently features the church and its construction.

In a modern vein, this is the telecommunications tower built for the 1992 Olympic Games. It's up on Montjuic, where many of the venues now are available for public use, such as the swimming pools.

In between, timewise, is the Palau de la Musica, which is a Modernista masterpiece. This photo shows the glass ceiling in the auditorium. If you get a chance, take in a performance here, arriving early so you can take in the scene. You can eat here, either in the lobby or outside in good weather. Reserve tickets in advance at www.palaumusica.org.

One benefit of choosing an apartment is the ability to select the area of the city you'd like to stay in. We have many apartments in El Born, for example, from which you can easily walk to Santa Maria del Mar as well as many other sights. Others are within a comfortable distance of the Palau.

You can check out a sampler of our offers at www.likelivingthere.com.

Highlights from the Paris fall gallery season

2011-09-26T21:01:00.000-04:00

ARTINFO France offers this review of the new fall gallery season in Paris:

http://www.artinfo.com/news/story/38620/see-9-highlights-from-pariss-fall-gallery-season/

Vincent Ganivet makes concrete graceful in his "Caténaires vrillées," at Galerie Yvon Lambert. Photos by German photographer Candida Höfer are seen on the walls.

Courtesy Yvon Lambert. Photo: Didier Barroso

The highlighted works are in stark contrast to the classics that hang in the Louvre and other museums around the city, and might be a shock to those who think art is limited to paintings and sculpture by recognized masters. There are plenty of galleries that feature that kind of work; just Google search "Paris art galleries" and look at the hundreds of highlighted venues.

Then there's the Centre Pompidou, filled with works that once were scorned and now are considered masterpieces. I'm not sure if these qualify, but they certainly are fun:

Beauty truly may be in the eye of the beholder, I guess. But one thing unmistakeable about Paris is that esthetics have been an important part of the city's fabric for centuries. Below is a ceiling and chandelier in a gallery of the Place des Vosges. We stopped for lunch on a cold but sunny December day, but the restaurant, which we thought was quite good, has now closed.

Here's a small and simple but well-located apartment just a block away: http://tinyurl.com/3zg4a2z

It's on a street of classy shops but not bars or cafés, although there are plenty nearby. For other apartment options in Paris, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Bullfight ban takes effect in Catalunya

2011-09-22T16:36:00.000-04:00

I'm not taking sides, but it doesn't bother me at all that the last bullfights in Catalunya (the Catalan term for the region known in Spanish as Catalonia) will take place Sunday. While fans and the industry hope to overturn the ban, the spectacle seems to be slowly dying on its own - this article points out that the number of bullfights shrank by 34 percent between 2007 and 2010 and another Barcelona ring closed years ago and is now a shopping mall. Here's the link:

http://www.reuters.com/article/2011/09/21/us-spain-bullfighting-idUSTRE78K1RV20110921

Fans probably don't want to hear it right now, but perhaps a compromise position might be to hold "bullgames" as is done in Provence at the Arles Roman amphitheater. In those performances, the matador can display his skills without costing the bull its life.

The Monumental bullring where the last fights will take place is in the Right Eixample (L'Eixample Dreta), a moderately upscale residential/commercial zone that is away from but convenient to sightseeing attractions. Here are a couple of photos of a spacious yet affordable three-bedroom, two-bath apartment a couple of blocks from the fun and classy Passeig de Gracia:

To see a sampling of other apartments in Barcelona, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Paris day trip to champagne country

2011-09-18T18:23:00.000-04:00

Here's a quick read on visiting the champagne region east of Paris. I enjoy a glass of champagne now and then, but not nearly as much as the writer, so in making this trip I'd be inclined to spend a little time in Reims, visit the famous cathedral there and if possible head off the beaten path a bit to sample the work of the many small, unheralded but high-quality producers who can't afford - or don't want - flashy tasting rooms on L'Avenue de Champagne in Epernay.

http://www.vancouversun.com/travel/Champagne+place/5301007/story.html

Champagne country is one of several winemaking areas within a comfortable train ride of the city. The photo below is of the tiny village of Monthélie, in Burgundy.

You can reach here in less than three hours from Paris by taking the TGV train to Dijon, then hiring a car for the drive southwest. Beaune is the center of this region, called the Cote d'Or, or Golden Slope. We've found a wonderful chambre d'hote (bed and breakfast, plus a gourmet dinner some nights at extra charge) in Puligny-Montrachet. Domaine des Anges, www.domainedesangespuligny.com run by a delightful British ex-pat couple.

The village itself is charming; small enough to walk comfortably end-to-end but with a café, caveau and a fine restaurant. As for wines, this area's whites, made from the Chardonnay or Aligoté grape, are world-renowned. Here are a couple of photos:

We don't have any apartments to offer in Burgundy, but if you're looking in Paris, check out some of our listings at www.likelivingthere.com keeping in mind this is a sampler and not our complete inventory.

It's La Mercé time in Barcelona!

2011-09-15T11:23:00.000-04:00

Those fortunate to be in Barcelona later this month are in for a treat, as the annual festival La Mercé takes place September 22 to 25. We were there in 2009 and 2010, but will miss this year as we'll be traveling on a different schedule.

The biggest and most widespread of the many festivals in Barcelona, La Mercé has something for nearly everyone, from music and dance stages set around the city to the spectacular closing show at the Font Majica. Here are a few photo highlights:

These are the famous castellers of Catalonia, who gather in the government square for a competition. You get a feel for the crowd in this shot; it's is absolutely shoulder-to-shoulder with fans and curious spectators. The castellers get smaller as they build their human castle, with the last one up a boy or girl of perhaps 10 years old. With the enthusiastic crowd and amazing feats of skill and strength, it's an unforgettable experience.

Correfoc, or Fire Run, is a spectacular if initially frightening event that combines very loud fireworks (and devils and dragons) with teams of drummers driving out a beat as spectators follow them dancing down Via Laietana. Amazingly, there is no evidence of the celebration the next morning, or even later that night, as a cleanup crew follows closely behind, washing down and cleaning up the street.

Giant figures parade all over the city throughout the festival, some saints, others popular figures such as Frederic Chopin. After the parade is over, they must be put away until next time.

The grand finale is the water, light, music and fireworks show at Font Majica, originally constructed in 1929 and reportedly the world's first "animated" fountain. The plaza and street below the National Art Museum of Catalonia swells with tens of thousands of well-behaved spectators, who happily stand for the entire show.

There is a lot more, including performances at the Palau de la Musica, traditional sardana folk dancing in the cathedral square, fireworks at the beach and many exhibits and music and street performers throughout Barcelona.

Plan ahead if you want to visit during La Mercé 2012, as apartments and hotels fill up starting many months ahead. The festival is centered on September 24, running a day or two before and after. To see some Barcelona apartments, visit www.likelivingthere.com.

'Water market' brings fresh produce to Paris

2011-09-11T13:56:00.000-04:00

Here's a fun audio clip about a new concept in freshmarkets in Paris. The idea is to bring truly local produce on canal boats to sell in the city. Not only does this support local agriculture, boats produce far less pollution than trucks, organizers say.

Volunteers unload fresh local produce at the Basssin de La Villette.

The produce is sold a few steps away.

Here's the link:
http://www.english.rfi.fr/france/20110824-floating-market-paris

The marché ran only through Sept. 4 this year as a test, but supporters are encouraged and hope to bring it back next year.You can learn more at the market web site: www.marchesurleau.com/

Powerless at home, longing for the sun

2011-09-07T12:17:00.000-04:00

To explain the delay since our last post, we have entered the 11th day without electricity at our house, thanks to tropical storm Irene. As I write this, sitting in my car behind a restaurant that has open wi-fi (where I've eaten five times in the past week), it's again raining and expected to continue for two days.

So it's nice to share a link like the one below, to a beautiful series of aerial photos of Barcelona, where the weekend forecast is sunny and 82F every day!

http://www.businessinsider.com/barcelona-aerial-photos-2011-7

Here's our own "aerial" photo, taken from the rooftop terrace of a building in the Right Eixample that contains several apartments:

There's an interesting architectural contrast between the historic church in the foreground and the modern Agbar Tower in the background.

Here's a photo of the interior of one of the larger apartments in this building, where all have at least two bedrooms but still reasonable prices. This three-bedroom was renovated last year and, like the others here, incorporates original mosaic tile floors and woodwork with modern amenities:

Here's the link: http://tinyurl.com/3wuq8og

Here's hoping to get back on schedule and post again this weekend.

Quelle horreur! Disturbing baguette news

2011-08-25T10:57:00.000-04:00

First came the announcement in late July that McDonald's is going to begin serving baguettes, the staple French bread, first at breakfast and then as sandwiches: www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,2085969,00.html

Then came even more disturbing news; baguette vending machines on the streets of Paris: www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2024081/Sacre-bleu-Traditional-French-baguette-machines.html

What's next, microwave baguettes at Franprix? (Maybe there already is such a thing, yuck!)

Let's take these one at a time. McDonald's says it will bake its bread fresh at each restaurant - that's a plus. And in making the announcement, a company executive said the additions were an attempt to satisfy local appetites."Our priority is to integrate ourselves locally and to give a French touch to our original offer of hamburgers and ice cream"

Fair enough, and if McD's can produce authentic baguettes, there's no reason to stand in their way. Note that France already is the fast-food giant's second-largest market.

As for the vending machines, there's already pushback from traditionalists - count me in - based on the fact that the bread isn't truly "fraiche." Instead it is partially baked and then heated in steam before popping out of the machines.

I'm not really worried that these innovations will drive the corner boulanger out of business, although every bit of competition hurts, so marginal operations may be affected. What I hope for is that French consumers maintain the high standards they have for food, particularly bread, and simply show no interest. French small businesses, whether boulangeries, shops or cafés, are not only charming to those of us accustomed to a chain-store world, they are bulwarks of well-earned family security.

This one is in the 10th arrondissement, and this cozy one-bedroom apartment is a block away, between Place de la Republique and Canal Saint-Martin: http://tinyurl.com/246bhtm

We stayed here last fall, and found there's plenty to do, from clubbing in nearby Oberkampf to watching the model boat sailors steering their craft in the canal. But as the apartment overlooks the courtyard, it's calm.

Bicycling in Barcelona

2011-08-20T16:57:00.000-04:00

It's not Paris, but Barcelona is becoming a more bicycle-friendly city, as this article points out: http://www.copenhagenize.com/2011/06/barcelona-and-bicycle-culture.html

As in other European cities, scooters are a constant hazard both to bicyclists and pedestrians, especially in the narrow streets and alleys found in much of the Old City area.

Like Paris, Barcelona has a community bike rental program, this one in effect since 2007. Bicing http://www.bicing.cat/ has dozens of pickup and drop-off locations throughout the city. The site, unfortunately, is only in Catalan and Spanish, so keep Google Translate handy if you don't read either of those.

Most of the city is quite level, until you head inland to Antoni Gaudi's Parc Güell and beyond. Here's a photo of one in a series of escalators that lead to a back entrance to the park:

We ended up here after taking the Metro to a station, Lesseps, that seemed within a short distance of the park. That proved to be true, but it was uphill all the way. A better plan is to pick up a bus and either the Lesseps or Joanic stations to a park entrance.

If you're a Gaudi fan - and even if you've never seen the Modernista master's work before - here's a very well-located and decorated apartment on the same block as one of his iconic buildings, La Pedrera: http://tinyurl.com/3hrfjgs. Just off the classy Passeig de Gracia, this place puts you within a short walk of another Gaudi work, Casa Batllo and a short Metro ride or long walk of the Sagrada Familia cathedral.

For a sampling of other Barcelona apartments, visit www.likelivingthere.com

An interesting Midwest opinion of Paris

2011-08-16T19:12:00.000-04:00

What starts out sounding like a critique is in fact praise for Paris and the French lifestyle. And this is from a writer at the Kansas City Star, in the heartland of down-home America. So, of course, these positive sentiments drew a predictable comment bashing the French as anti-freedom while touting the United States' economic superiorty and "cultural dominance."

http://www.kansascity.com/2011/07/22/3029845/commentary-they-have-it-figured.html

Clearly this critic has not eaten in a small Parisian café or a family run restaurant in the countryside. I've always been impressed by the hard work and high standards one finds in these and other small businesses in France.

This is the restaurant Le Pont Julien in Provence. We stopped here for lunch on the way to Roussillon and had a delightful 12,5 euro lunch prepared by the husband and served by the wife. There are thousands of places like this throughout France, where the food is freshly prepared and a single professional waiter or waitress hustles to serve the entire dining room.

As for culture, an American belittling France is quite ironic. We have a lot to be proud of, but our "dominance" in the form of Mickey Mouse, hip hop and fast food hardly compares to centuries of art, music and architecture. Here's a photo of a boulanger in the 7th arrondissement that captures a couple of the enduring charms of Paris, good, fresh food and beautiful, well-maintained buildings:

We stayed near here with friends in a spacious apartment. With three bedrooms, two bathrooms (French style, with tub/shower and sink) and two separate water closets, this is a great place for a family or group of friends. The view of the Eiffel Tower from the living room windows is a bonus, as is the proximity to Les Invalides and the Musée Rodin.

But here's a caution; other than this excellent boulangerie, the immediate area is barren of eating places and shops, although there are plenty within five blocks.
Here's the link: http://tinyurl.com/44dgwkk

Finally, chips coming to U.S. credit cards

2011-08-13T10:51:00.000-04:00

Here's an article published today in which Visa announces it finally will issue credit cards with embedded computer chips rather than magnetic strips. Once the transition takes place, American travelers will no longer have to plan in advance how to pay for purchases. Now, for example, U.S. cards will not work in most self-service settings, such as fuel stations and toll booths.

I was reminded of this the hard way during a drive through France, when I thoughtlessly merged into the credit card lane on the Autoroute. After enough angry, horn-honking drivers lined up behind me, an attendant kindly let me through.

Perhaps more important than convenience for travelers, chipped cards offer superior security.

NEW YORK — Swipe your card and sign. It’s a reflex that credit card holders may soon have to suppress at the register.

Visa announced this week that it will take measures to speed up the transition to cards that use a computer chip, rather than the magnetic strips on most cards right now. The chip technology significantly reduces the potential for fraud and facilitates contactless mobile payment options that let users wave cards near the reader to pay.
A big part of Visa’s challenge is getting merchants to install new terminals than can read chip-based cards.
Chip-based cards are already widely used outside the United States, particularly in Europe. The cards have chips on the front and are inserted into a slot, unlike magnetic strip cards that are swiped. That’s why Americans sometimes encounter problems when using their cards abroad.
The transition to the new technology at home has been difficult in part because there are so many card issuers in the United States. But now Visa says it will take steps to get the banks, credit unions, payment processors and merchants to convert.
Starting in 2012, for example, merchants that show they’re widely using terminals that accept the more fraud-proof cards will no longer have to submit to an annual audit required by Visa. This will be a strong incentive because the audits to check for fraud can be costly for merchants, notes Randy Vanderhoof, executive director of the Smart Card Alliance, an industry trade group.
By 2013, companies such as First Data, which help process payments, will be required to have the capability to process chip card payments. And by 2015, banks will have their fraud liability limited on cards that use chip technology.
Banks will likely start phasing in the new cards over the next couple years as they replace expiring cards, according to Vanderhoof
Some card issuers are already rolling out the new cards for customers who travel frequently. Chase, for example, in June became the first major U.S. bank to make a card with the chip technology widely available. U.S. Bank and Wells Fargo this summer also rolled out chip-based cards to select customers and plan to expand the offering in the coming year.

Seeing 'green' in Barcelona

2011-08-10T12:52:00.000-04:00

The writer of this article, http://www.mnn.com/lifestyle/eco-tourism/stories/destination-of-the-week-barcelona, manages to see "green" everywhere in Barcelona, from the Bus Turistic to Parc Güell. I think some of this is a stretch, but it's really nice that the city's public areas uniformly include greenery, from potted shrubs to beautifully planted gardens. Here's an example on Passeig Sant Joan in the Gracia district:

Not only are public spaces filled with natural features, private ones often are, too. Here's the playground behind an apartment building we stayed in; those are olive trees planted throughout the lawn:

And here's a shot that illustrates the contrasts in this fascinating city. The beautiful cactus is at the edge of Parc Güell, while in the background a huge crane has been set up at a construction site. Somehow, Barcelona manages to balance the challenges of economic growth and the preservation of nature's beauty.

Another feature that gets a "green" mention is the Barcelona Metro system, which makes it fast, easy and inexpensive to get around and see all these places. We try to pick apartments in part based on Metro access; for instance Line 4 goes from the Diagonal Mar down the coast, then turns up through the Old City before heading into Gracia, with stations near many key attractions.

Here's one apartment of several in a building in El Born, less than a block from a Metro station:
http://tinyurl.com/3j35eq4
To see more, visit www.likelivingthere.com

Paris partyers really lose their way

2011-08-06T11:32:00.000-04:00

Being uncomfortable underground in dark places, I've not gone into the catacombs that house the bones of millions beneath Paris. They were dumped into the former quarry works after outbreaks of disease near various ill-kept cemeteries. Later they were organized into displays of skulls and bones that some consider art.

The catacombs also are an exotic destination for parties, which are not officially sanctioned. Sometimes things go awry, as they often do when copious quantities of alcohol are involved, and this link takes you to the story of one of those incidents: http://tinyurl.com/3vv59yl

If you'd like to visit in a more conventional way, here's the official web site, www.catacombes-de-paris.fr/

The entrance is in Montparnasse, in the 14th arrondissement, pretty much directly south of the Luxembourg Gardens. This is a less touristic, more authentic residential/commercial neighborhood, great for lingering in local cafés but still a quick Metro ride to the center. The 14th and 15th are the city's largest residential districts, but some apartments are available. Here's one:

www.likelivingthere.com/Documents/Apt pages Paris/PDFs/Business or plaisir.pdf